Snow, ski and Stroh
ALEX SAGGERS experiences the highs and lows of the British University Snowsports Council annual trip
Its 5am and I’m awake, watching a beautiful sunrise over a not so beautiful German Autobahn. The tang of student sweat fills the air and the only sounds are the hum of the engine and a rabid conversation of the finer points of toe-ing that has been going on for approximately two hours. I have been on the same vehicle for almost a full day. Is this hell, I ask myself? No, just one of the coaches headed for the Austrian slopes, crammed with eager, if slightly smelly, Newcastle students.
The annual British University Snowsports Council Main Event comprises of around 2000 students from all over the UK, descending on The Alps to ski, board, snog, strip and dance. This April’s BUSC event, at the twin Austrian resorts of Saalbach-Hinterglemm, promised to be bigger than ever.
With DJ sets lined up from the Scratch Perverts, racing and freestyle competitions, themed nights including cartoons and zoo animals, and a massive outdoor event hosted by the Urban Knights, God forbid you choose that week to have a quiet trip out with the family.
On arriving at the resort we waste no time in gathering our hire skis and hitting the nearest bar pumping out the Euro tunes and Jägermeister. Our hotel for the week is the cosy Birkenhof Haus, a tiny 11 room hotel situated halfway between the two resorts. Run by a friendly Fraulein who doesn’t speak a word of English, Birkenhof couldn’t be more Austrian in character if it was wearing Lederhosen. Strange straw ornaments adorn the walls as the Virgin Mary gazes benignly down at us from her place above a cupboard. Travelodge this ain’t.
The stunning Salzburgian valley around us boasts 200km of beginner-friendly but selective slopes, among more advanced runs such as the World Championship slope on the Zwolferkogel, at 1984m above sea level. Perfect for intermediates, Saalbach-Hinterglemm is not celebrated for its off-piste but there can be sizable pockets of powder after a snowfall. That, together with a number of off-piste itineraries makes the resort enjoyable for all abilities.
The beauty of the ski trip is that, in the words of Center Parcs, you can do as much or as little as you like. By all means, get up at first lifts to practise your racing turns and some sick off-piste, and be in bed by 9pm. Alternatively, rise at 1pm, shoop down a leisurely blue, stop for some hot chocolate and a tan and then take a lift down for some après ski until the wee hours, repeating ad infinitum. Most prefer a balance between the two, combining the laid back atmosphere and gorgeous scenery with letting out their inner party beast.
After keeping you occupied all day up on the slopes, Saalbach-Hinterglemm is also renowned party territory. After all, Austria is one of the world’s only stockists of ‘Stroh’ 80% rum (experts advise not inhaling through the mouth for some time after having a shot). Apparently BUSC chose well; it’s the second most popular destination in Austria (the other being Vienna, its capital) and is voted top of the list of favourite après-ski resorts. So through harrowing extensive research I have come up with a handy list of awesome places for après (or even during) ski:
BEST FOR … DEBAUCHERY:
The London Pub, Hinterglemm
Though not so much a London Pub as a huge complex comprising nightclub, bars, strip club, restaurant and hotel, this was where most nights out ended up as the sheer size of the club meant almost no queuing. The huge upstairs Tanzhimmel area proffered tasty Jägerbombs by the bucket-load and large dancing platforms as well as more chilled out areas. Downstairs was an altogether seedier place with skimpily dressed yet mature dancers, and rampant student nakedness a mandatory requirement.
BEST FOR … VIEWS:
Sky Restaurant, Hinterglemm
At one of the highest point in the area, this mountain top bar provides a breathtaking 360˚ view of the Alps on a clear day. Perfect for taking a breather between runs, the food is cheap and cheerful, and the music jolly and local.
BEST FOR … SHEER BIZARRENESS:
Goaβstall, Hinterglemm
A large tent, with live goats, goat-head dancers, and creepy goat statues riding sleighs, this was by far the weirdest bar in the area. Atop a small slope, this could be reached by clambering ungainly up the snow, or, as we later rather humiliatingly realized, by a door leading straight off the road. Live music, big dance floor and Austrian, erm, charm make this a must see novelty. Beware the free schnapps though: yes, that is a huge throbbing penis on the label.
Alternatively, head to Hexenhäusl to see a mechanical witch robot strip. You weirdo.
BEST FOR … POST SKI BOOZING:
VIP bar, Hinterglemm
A small rotund bar, you can ski right to the door from the nursery slopes and from two of the main gondolas. A sign at the bar that proclaims ‘Jägermeister is our house wine’ just about sums up this place perfectly, which boasts themed après ski every night, such as the oh-so tempting ‘Pornoparty.’
If knee slapping Europop is more your thing, just a short walk away is the lively UU Bar, popular with locals and students alike.
BEST FOR …. SOAKING UP THE SUN:
Bergstadtl, Hinterglemm
With great, cheap food, and an ideal location at the mid stop of the Westgipfelbahn gondola, Bergstadl became our regular lunch rest stop, serving massive portions of much needed carbs provided to get us through the rest of the day. Great atmosphere and views, with a big inside area in case of bad weather.
BEST FOR … TOBOGANNING!:
Spielberghaus, Hinterglemm
Ever felt the urge to throw yourself face-first down a mountain on a small plastic tray after a huge meal? If the answer is ‘Yes, good God YES!’ then head to the lively Spielberghaus, situated 3km up a toboggan track. To get up we were herded like cattle onto the back of a piste-basher, then provided with delicious cauldrons full of meat and other culinary delights by our sexy waiter (tight Lederhosen, a pot belly and a ponytail? Swoon!). Then handed a toboggan and literally pushed down, we navigated our way in the dark taking out many a fellow toboganneer en route. Enormous fun.
As the rest of the holiday melds into one big blur of rapturous good times, there were only a few disappointments with what was otherwise perfection. One being that the spread of the two towns meant a lot of the travelling around the resort took place by hateful bus. Fortunately, buses to the pistes were fairly regular, and BUSC provided plenty of free Nightbuses for times when you felt less than capable.
In fact, BUSC really excelled themselves this year, with the highlight of the week being an epic opening ceremony featuring a floodlit freestyle setup and fireworks, followed by the mighty Urban Knights on a massive outdoor stage in the Main Town Square.
As a wizened, shriveled old third year, it makes me sad that this year’s event was my last, as a truly unforgettable time was had by all. So, freshers and second years grab your skis, board and bottle of ‘Stroh 80’ and make sure you don’t miss the next BUSC.
